This queen of knitwear is part of the Korean wave, sweeping Asia to the world.
South Korea used to be known for its advanced technology and movies, but fashion is now topping that list. Korean designers are appearing actively and influencing the global fashion stage. One of those is the incredibly entertaining and hardworking knitwear designer, One Choi. Her resume is an impressive one, from working as textile knit designer for Alexander McQueen, to Lanvin. Since 2012 it’s her own label ONE CHOI that has the fashion world talking. Minimalistic, sensual and elegant, One proves that knitwear can be sexy.
You went from studying ceramics, to becoming one of the biggest names in knitwear design. How did the crossover between the raw materials happen?
Art is art to me and I love contrasts. The reason I chose to study ceramic art was because I was fascinated by how the soft clay would turn into a strong and hard object. I loved the feel of clay, the process of baking the object and then colouring it. This is why I was drawn to ceramics. Unfortunately, historically and traditionally, we lack colour in Korean ceramic art, which was very frustrating to me. This is what made me switch from ceramics to yarn. Many don’t realise this, but there are so many different shades of every colour. What fascinated me about ceramics was that technically there are no lines and I often use this as inspiration for my knitwear, to create pieces with minimal seams for optimal comfort. I always loved creating with my hands, I still do.
What is the craziest object you’ve ever knitted?
It must be my first knitwear piece made in 2001. I knitted a conceptual piece out of 100% lycra and yachting stainless steel wire, the oddest mix.
We hear your mother’s reaction to you leaving South Korea to study fashion in London, was a hilarious one. Tell us more!
Well I come from a very traditional family from the city of Gwangju. My mother had never been outside Korea. When I first told her that I wanted to go to England to study, she broke down in tears and told me “I can teach you how to knit, I’ll buy you a thousand knitting needles if you stay.” She was talking about hand knitting, she didn’t even know that machine knitting existed.
What types of materials do you prefer to use?
I love using wool, especially merino wool. It’s so soft, lightweight and warm. It’s super fine yet really strong and easy to work with, to produce perfect shaping and fit that accentuates the figure.
How would you describe your own personal style?
I’m all about the minimalistic look. It has to be comfortable but still have a touch of elegance. Believe it or not, most of the time I’m in knitwear.
Can knitwear be sexy?
Oh yes! Knitwear by technique is rather sexy. One thread is used to create a whole piece, which always allows a little skin to peek through. It’s sexy but leaves something to the imagination. Less is more!
Name a woman you would like dress in One Choi!
It would have to be Kate Moss. She has a timeless elegance and the perfect figure for knitwear.
Can you tell us how you arrived at the designs for your current AW collection and what your inspiration is for SS 2015?
My AW14 was all about the ballerina off stage, while SS15 was inspired by a relaxed city look.
What advice do you have for aspiring knitwear designers?
Knitwear design looks very simple, but a lot of craftsmanship goes into it. It’s far more complicated than it seems and you will need to be patient and invest a lot of time in learning the different techniques.
And finally, what are the must see places and experiences to have in your city Seoul?
I would recommend visiting all the places the locals enjoy, the restaurants, bars and clubs in the Gangnam and Hongdae area. There’s also a 24-hour shopping area in Dongdaemoon area, where everything is sold at wholesale price. I also recommend a visit to a Korean style Spa and bath, it’s an extraordinary experience to have. The Soju and beer cocktail is a must try, the performance involved in its preparation is really entertaining to watch.
Interview by Dena Tahmasebi
Photography by Andrea Vecchiato